Artificial grass performs only as well as what lies beneath it. The infill that sits on top, the base material underneath, the drainage path, and the finishing details at seams and edges determine whether your turf will last, drain properly, support pets, and look finished years after installation. This guide walks a Frisco homeowner through each layer and specification, so you understand what to ask for and what to inspect before and after installation.
Whether you are replacing a dead bermuda lawn, building a dog run that does not smell like mud, preparing a patio for a pool surround, or converting a shaded area where grass will not grow, the same foundation principles apply. Knowing them helps you choose an installer wisely and hold them accountable to a written standard.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material spread across the turf surface after installation. It serves multiple purposes: it props the grass fibres upright, protects the backing from UV damage, adds weight so the turf does not shift, and helps the turf drain and dry. The choice of infill affects performance, maintenance, odor control, and how the turf feels underfoot.
Silica sand is the most common and least expensive infill. It is a fine, angular mineral that settles into the turf and holds the fibres in place. Silica sand works well for general residential yards and is durable, but it can compact over time and does not offer odor control. Coated sand consists of silica grains rounded and coated with a polymer or mineral layer. Rounded grains move more freely than angular sand, they are easier to rake and refresh, and they feel softer underfoot. Coated sands are often tinted in earth tones or custom colours to match landscape preferences. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes ammonia and other odors. It is often blended with silica sand or used as a top layer in pet areas and dog runs. Zeolite does not eliminate odor on its own if the base does not drain well, but it significantly reduces smell when drainage is sound. Antimicrobial and cooling infills are specialty coated products designed to inhibit bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in hot climates. Products such as Envirofill are engineered coated sands that combine these functions. They cost more than standard silica but are popular in high-use areas, sports fields, and regions where heat is a concern. Crumb rubber (recycled tire material) is used mainly on sports fields, playgrounds with safety underlays, and athletic courts because it provides impact absorption and drainage. It is not typically recommended for residential yards due to cost, heat retention, and maintenance considerations.
A written spec should name the infill type and its pounds per square foot. Mixing infill types (for example, zeolite in the pet area and silica elsewhere) is common and often the right choice.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is measured in pounds per square foot. This figure tells you how much material is needed to prop the fibres, protect the backing, and achieve the performance the turf is designed for. Too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts in cheap installations. Turf laid with sparse infill will shed, mat down quickly, expose the backing to UV, and fail to drain or dry evenly.
Typical residential turf requires between 1.5 and 3 pounds of infill per square foot, depending on the pile height, face weight, and intended use. Pet turf and high-traffic areas often need the higher end of that range or slightly more. Putting greens and sports surfaces have their own specifications, sometimes higher. The infill amount is not a guess: it should be written into your estimate and your contract before work begins. Ask the installer to specify it in pounds per square foot and to explain why that amount matches the turf product and your use case. If an installer cannot or will not name the infill amount in writing, that is a red flag.
During installation, infill is spread and then power broomed to settle it evenly. Over the first few weeks, infill will migrate slightly and compact. A professional installer will schedule a follow-up visit to top-dress and re-level if needed.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The path from the turf surface to the soil below must allow water to escape. On a properly prepared yard, water drains through the turf, through the infill, through an optional underlay or pad, through a compacted base of rock or decomposed granite, and into the native soil or a drainage system. If any layer traps water, the turf will smell, algae will grow, and the backing will break down.
The first step is removal. If you have an existing lawn of bermuda or St. Augustine sod, it must be stripped and hauled away. If there is old artificial turf, it is removed entirely, including any old infill and base material that has become compacted or contaminated. Roots and organic debris are cleared so they do not decompose under the new turf and create voids. Once the area is cleared, the ground is excavated to the depth needed for the new base, typically three to four inches. The excavated area is graded so water runs away from the house and any pool, not toward them. A weed barrier (landscape fabric) is laid over the soil to prevent weeds from growing up through the base and the turf. It is permeable so water can drain through it. On top of the weed barrier, a free-draining base of decomposed granite, crushed limestone, or recycled asphalt is spread and compacted in lifts (thin layers compacted one at a time) using a plate compactor. This base is firm, stable, and allows water to percolate.
For hard surfaces such as patios, balconies, and concrete decks, the approach is different. Turf cannot be glued directly to a concrete slab that holds water. Instead, a draining underlay or specialized pad is laid on top of the clean, dry concrete. The pad allows water to drain to the edges and away from the structure. Edging and slope are critical. For pet areas and play zones, a cushioning underlay is often added under the base or under the turf itself to provide comfort and additional drainage. Your installer will recommend the right approach based on your site conditions.
Base Prep on Frisco Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Frisco sits on Blackland Prairie with heavy black clay soil that drains poorly. Clay holds water, and water under artificial turf causes odor, algae, and premature backing failure. A proper base preparation accounts for this soil type and ensures water moves away from the turf and the house.
Excavation depth depends on existing grade, drainage patterns, and the turf application. A typical residential yard is excavated three to four inches deep. The excavated area is graded with a slight slope (typically one quarter to one half inch per foot) away from the house, patios, and pool. This grading is essential in clay soil because water will not drain vertically; it must be directed laterally. Once graded, the area is filled with a free-draining base material such as decomposed granite or crushed base rock. This material is spread in lifts of one to two inches and compacted firmly with a plate compactor after each lift. Proper compaction is critical. An uncompacted base will settle unevenly, creating dips and puddles where water collects. Those puddles smell, and the turf above them fails. Compaction also stabilizes the base so the turf does not shift or wrinkle under foot traffic or equipment.
If your yard has a history of standing water, poor drainage, or a high water table, base preparation alone may not solve the problem. In those cases, a subsurface drainage system (French drain, perforated pipe, or swale) may be necessary before the turf goes down. If drainage cannot be addressed, the installation should not proceed. Frisco Turf Installation will assess drainage at the free estimate and will walk away from a job rather than install turf on a yard with an unfixable water problem.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial turf has a backing (the underside) that may be perforated or fully permeable. Perforated backing has small holes punched through it. Water passes through the holes and into the layers below. Fully permeable backing is woven or engineered so water flows through the material itself rather than through discrete holes. The difference matters less than the drainage rate, which is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH per sq ft). A faster rate means water moves through the turf more quickly. Typical residential turf drains between 15 and 30 GPH per sq ft. Pet turf and high-traffic areas often drain faster, 30 to 60 GPH or more, because they must handle heavy use and frequent moisture from pets and cleaning.
The drainage rate of the turf is only one part of the system. A turf that drains at 30 GPH per sq ft will still fail if the base below it is clay or uncompacted. Water must have a path all the way through the base and into the native soil. In Frisco clay, that path does not happen by accident. It requires excavation, proper grading, compacted base rock, and often a slope or a subsurface drain. When it rains hard or when a pet area is hosed down, the base and the turf together are tested. A fast-draining turf on a poor base will puddle and smell. A good base with slower-draining turf will work better than a poor base with fast-draining turf.
Underlays and pads are optional layers placed between the turf and the base (or between the turf and a hard surface). They provide cushioning for play areas and pet zones, improve drainage on hard surfaces, and can add insulation. A quality underlay should be permeable so it does not trap water. Ask your installer whether an underlay is recommended for your application and what drainage rate it provides.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a professional installation from a quick job. Seams are where two pieces of turf are joined. In a proper seam, the edges are cut straight and aligned so the pile direction (the way the grass leans) is the same on both sides. The seam is glued with turf adhesive applied to a seam tape (a strip of backing material or fabric) that bridges the gap. The adhesive is spread evenly and the turf is pressed down firmly. A good seam is nearly invisible once the grass relaxes and the infill settles. A poor seam is visible as a line, the edges may lift, or the grass may lean in different directions on either side. Visible seams and lifted edges are signs that the seam was not properly taped, glued, or weighted while curing.
Nails or staples secure the turf perimeter to the ground or to a bender board (an edging strip). They are spaced six to eight inches apart around the perimeter. Too few fasteners and the turf will shift or wrinkle. Too many and they perforate the backing unnecessarily. Fasteners should be driven flush so they do not catch feet or equipment. Edging is the perimeter finish. Common options include a wooden bender board, a metal or plastic edge restraint, or a transition to pavers or concrete. The edge should be secured so the turf cannot pull away. On patios and pool surrounds, the turf is cut tight to the paver or deck edge so water drains away and the transition is clean.
Power brooming is the final step. A power broom (a machine with rotating brushes) is run over the entire turf surface. It stands the grass fibres upright, spreads the infill evenly, and brushes debris from the surface. Without power brooming, the turf will look matted and the infill will be unevenly distributed. This step takes time and is often skipped by installers in a hurry.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should receive a written specification that details every material and method. This spec is your contract and your protection. It allows you to verify that the work was done as promised and to hold the installer accountable. Here is what a complete spec includes: the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), face weight in ounces per square yard, pile height in millimeters, backing type and drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, infill type and amount in pounds per square foot, base material and depth (for example, three and one half inches of compacted crushed limestone), weed barrier specification, seam method and location, edging type and fastening method, cleanup and haul-off of old turf and debris, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation itself).
The spec should also note any site-specific details: grading and drainage plan, location of utilities (Texas 811 locates are called before excavation for base prep), location of private lines such as irrigation, low-voltage lighting, and pet fence wire that do not appear on a utility locate, and any HOA architectural requirements for front-yard turf. If the job includes pet turf, a putting green, a pool surround, or other specialized application, the spec should be tailored to that use.
Do not accept a price without a spec, and do not sign a contract that does not match the spec. Frisco Turf Installation provides a detailed written spec with every estimate and every contract. For pricing and a free estimate, call (940) 289-5633 or request an on-site measurement. The estimate will include the spec, the scope of work, and the total cost.